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Weekly DIY: Make Your Own Biodiesel

Utah Biodiesel SupplyPhoto: Utah Biodiesel SupplyEven with the retail price of biodiesel hovering close to the price of regular diesel ("dino-diesel" to us bio-enthusiasts) in many areas, a growing group of DIYers are making the fuel from scratch in their own garages and back yards.

Homebrewing biodiesel has many advantages: it usually costs well under $1 a gallon to produce, it eliminates trips to the gas station, and it makes a hell of a hobby.

I've been making biodiesel in my garage for almost two years with equipment that I built myself from instructions available for free online and with used vegetable oil that I pick up for free from a local restaurant. But, we're getting ahead of ourselves. Like most homebrewers, I started my bio-adventure by making small test batches of biodiesel in my kitchen.

Before we go any further, the Green Options legal team has asked me to include a short note about safety:

Almost everything you'll be dealing with when making biodiesel can be very dangerous. You'll be handling hot oil, methanol (which is poisonous and potentially lethal if consumed, if it gets on your skin, or if its vapors are inhaled), and sodium hydroxide (lye, which is poisonous and corrosive if consumed or inhaled, and which will burn your skin quickly and painfully immediately upon contact). Always wear heavy-duty, chemical-proof gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask during every step of the process. With methanol, not even cartridge respirators can protect you from fumes. Always minimize the time that anything containing methanol is unsealed. Literally, hold your breath for the few moments that you're working with open methanol containers. Above all, use common sense.

Biodiesel is simply heated vegetable oil mixed with methoxide (methanol + lye). The lye in the methoxide breaks apart the vegetable oil and allows a methanol molecule to recombine where a glycerin molecule used to be (methanol and glycerin are both alcohols). When the reaction is finished, the darker glycerin settles to the bottom, and the lighter biodiesel is left on top.

Here's what you'll need to make your own test batch at home:

  • Safety equipment listed above
  • 1 Liter of any virgin, unused vegetable oil (non-hydrogenated!)
  • 1 bottle of "Red Devil Lye" drain cleaner, available at most grocery and hardware stores. Red Devil is very close to pure NaOH (sodium hydroxide), and is perfect for making small batches of biodiesel. If you can't find Red Devil, contact a local chemical supply house and ask for sodium hydroxide.
  • 1 bottle of "HEET" brand antifreeze (the yellow bottle) available at most auto supply stores. HEET is close to 100% pure methanol. If you can't find it, look for a local racing fuels retailer that sells methanol.
  • 1 large sealable glass jar or bottle, like a mason jar (at least 1.5 liters)
  • 1 small sealable glass jar or bottle, like a mason jar (at least .5 liters)
  • 1 glass (not plastic!) measuring cup (at least 250 mL)
  • A scale that measures in grams
  • 1 funnel
  • 1 thermometer
  • 1 paper cupcake wrapper

This "recipe" only works with virgin veggie oil. If you want to try making a batch from used oil, check out the external resources provided below. You'll need to do a titration to determine how much lye to use.

How to make methoxide:

  1. First, go outside. You'll want to do this in a well-ventilated area. Measure out 250 mL of methanol (HEET). Pour it into the small glass jar and seal it.
  2. Measure out 6 grams of NaOH (Red Devil). Don't let the lye touch anything plastic or anything living, including you. You can use a paper cupcake wrapper on the scale to hold the NaOH if necessary. Lye tends to stick to anything and everything else.
  3. Unseal the jar containing the methanol and carefully pour in the NaOH. Re-seal the jar.
  4. Gently swirl the jar to dissolve the lye in the methanol. This may take a few minutes. The jar will probably become slightly warmer. This is normal. A small amount of pressure will also be built up. Gently vent this pressure outside by opening the lid, but do not breathe the fumes!
  5. Leave the jar outside for now, but not in the sun.

Unwashed Biodiesel (with glycerine removed)Unwashed Biodiesel (with glycerine removed)How to make biodiesel:

  1. Begin by heating the liter of vegetable oil to 140-145 degrees Fahrenheit on the stove or carefully in the microwave.
  2. Pour the heated oil into the large glass jar using the funnel if necessary.
  3. Take the oil jar and the funnel outside. Carefully but quickly pour the methoxide into the oil jar using the same funnel. Re-seal the jar.
  4. After ensuring that the jar is completely sealed, shake the mixture vigorously for 20-25 seconds.
  5. Set the jar down in a well-lit area and watch the magic happen!

You'll notice immediately (probably even while you're shaking) that the mixture turns a much darker color than the original oil. This is the dark glycerin molecules being broken off of the original veggie oil molecules by the lye. After just a few minutes, you'll begin seeing the glycerin fall to the bottom of the jar. Within an hour or two, if all went well, all the glycerin should have separated out and you should have two clearly separate layers: dark glycerin on the bottom (20-25% of the volume), and cloudy looking biodiesel on top. Success!

Washed BiodieselWashed BiodieselCan you run back outside and pour the biodiesel directly into your diesel car or truck? Well, it's probably not a good idea. The reason the biodiesel layer looks cloudy is because there is still some leftover lye and other impurities floating around in there. Though some homebrewers do use this "unwashed" biodiesel, most of us choose to take a few extra steps to "wash" the fuel of all the impurities before putting it in our tanks. You can see the clarity difference in the two images. The reddish unwashed biodiesel above is too cloudy to see the text behind the jar. The washed fuel on the left is almost perfectly clear. (Don't worry about the color difference: they're just two different kinds of vegetable oil.)

If you're ready to learn more about making biodiesel, here are a few of the resources that helped me move from making small test batches to making 30 gallon, road-ready batches in my "Appleseed Biodiesel Reactor", wash tank, and dry tank:

  • InfoPop Biodiesel Forums - The greatest and most helpful homebrewers in the world hang out here. If you're planning to become a homebrewer, trust me, you'll need their help.

Utah Biodiesel Supply photo by Jack Jones, courtesy of Graydon Blair.

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5 Responses to “Weekly DIY: Make Your Own Biodiesel”

  1. Marc Says:

    Thanks for this article. I just learned some new resource links from it :D

  2. Janis Mara Says:

    Let’s hear it for biodiesel - I have asthma and nothing pleases me more than to find myself behind a car with a big ol’ biodiesel sticker on its bumper and the smell of French fries in its wake, instead of inhaling all those pollutants!

    I do want to make a bit of a gentle amendment to your post: I have a friend who makes his own biodiesel, and though he used totally recycled materials and did it all by hand, he spent some $700 to $1,000 creating the setup, it took him more than a year, and if you factor in his labor, $1 a gallon is a much-too-low estimate.

    Let’s face it: right now, even in Berkeley, Calif., where there’s a biodiesel fueling station, no less, using alternative fuel still involves a lot more effort; and it’s not really cheaper, not yet. Which is not to say we shouldn’t do it!

    Janis Mara
    www.ecotality.com

  3. Ryan Thibodaux Says:

    Hi Janis,

    I tend to agree with most of your points. I spent about $1200 building all of my equipment, though if I had planned a little better, and if I had had any experience at all screwing two pipes together, and if I had known all the stuff I could have gotten for free (like barrels and such), and if I had had any of the tools needed to build it (like a pipe wrench), I could have easily done it for $500. If I ever build another system, that'd be my budget. The payback time just depends on how much fuel you make and use.

    And, yes, it does require some time. That's why I like to think of it as a hobby. I haven't been making much fuel lately because I don't really drive anymore, but I used to spend about 5 hours per 30 gallon batch. That 30 gallons would last me, my wife, and my housemate about 3 weeks. Other than that, picking up oil once a week was the only other time I spent doing it (but I got to eat a great lunch every Friday!).

    As I've written at my blog several times, I don't think people should get into homebrewing just to save money. Considering the initial investment and the time involved making the fuel, there are probably better ways to save a buck. But, if you take it up as a hobby because it does some good and happens to save you some money, you can't really go wrong.

  4. Unregistered User Says:

    Lye harms plastic?

  5. Ryan Thibodaux Says:

    It can harm low quality plastic (HDPE is fine though). It ate through a cheap plastic cup I had it sitting in once. I haven't cared to test it any further.

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